How to Use A Strap End Cutter

In this video we're going to be showing you how to set a snap.

In this case we're using what's called the line 24 snap but the process is just about identical for every snap out there.

What we're going to simply do is just make it so we can snap the two pieces of this leather together. In order to do this we'll need a few simple tools. The first is a setter line 24 setter specifically because it has to match our snaps. A cap anvil cap. Anvils are universal - used for just about any size snap. It can also use it for rivets. We need our pounding board, our little beat up one here, the one we use all the time. Need a hammer and you will note that we are using a steel hammer. Some people think that's a major no-no. I never use a steel hammer on a good cutting tool but for everyday work on inexpensive tools, while it does chew the heck out of the tool it also saves your arm. It's a lot easier to work with. And we'll need our bench anvil as well.

So i'm going to start by punching holes, and the first thing we have to do is determine what size hole we need. We do that by taking the eyelet, the big sticking up part of the snap, and we set the hole punch up against it. Now I like to set mine snug, which means that my hole punch just barely goes over the top of the eyelet. Some people like to set them a little bit looser. In that case you could use the next larger hole punch. The best bet is to try one or two on a piece of scrap material and see which one works best for you.

I'm going to punch a hole for each side of the snap, more or less in the center, I'm not being fussy here. We'll get the pounding board out of the way.

We'll start by setting the button that goes on the good side of the leather. Set our cap anvil down because we'll want that. The other part that goes against that is the receiver. You set that over it and put the whole little package together. Here on our cap anvil the concept again is to keep the dome of the snap a dome and not turn into a pancake.

Setting tool goes directly onto the eyelet. You'll notice that it sits right in there, doesn't move, and then we're going to slide our finger down to hold it in place. We don't want it bouncing around, we want it setting completely flush. You're not going to hit your finger because the tool is still inside the snap. You start by striking gently because we're rolling over the metal not crushing it, the center is designed to make it roll, so we start gently and go a little bit harder and as we start you'll see that it does start to roll over the metal. It's not not making it flat. Reset it now - we don't have to worry about our fingers. Make sure it's set the rest of the way, and that's part number one of the snap, and of course the button on the other side.

we're done with the cap anvil we now need to put the other half of the snap on. This section here is the receiver, it is the part that matches with that, so we want to make sure that we're putting this on the right side. We want this on this side and I usually mess up about two or three a week. We put the anvil, excuse me we put the eyelet through from the other side, set that flush on our anvil. This is not domed so we don't have to worry about our cap anvil and we repeat the exact same process: Line up the tool, slide down the finger, gentle and then hard, and with all that massive amount of effort that's all there is to it.

You've just set yourself a snap!